How to Read Bike Tire Pressure on Tire: Sidewall Markings Fully Explained
Every bike tire has critical pressure and size information molded directly into its sidewall — but the formatting varies by manufacturer, country of origin, and tire type, making it genuinely confusing for most riders to interpret. This guide decodes every number, abbreviation, and marking you will encounter on any bike tire sidewall, so you can find your correct PSI range and understand exactly what it means.
To read PSI on a bike tire, look along the tire sidewall near the rim bead for pressure markings printed or molded into the rubber. You will see formats like "Max 120 PSI," "Inflate to 80–110 PSI," or "Min 4.5 / Max 8.5 Bar." The number after "Max" is the manufacturer's safety ceiling — not your optimal riding pressure. Your actual target should be lower, based on your weight, bike type, and terrain.
Where to Find the PSI Markings on Your Tire
The pressure information on a bike tire is always located on the tire sidewall — the vertical side surface of the tire between the tread center and the rim bead. It is not on the tread itself and not on the inner tube.
Exactly Where to Look
Run your eye around the full circumference of the sidewall, approximately halfway between the tread edge and the rim bead. On most tires, the pressure marking appears in one of two locations:
Mid-sidewall: The most common location on modern tires. The text is molded into the rubber and may be embossed (raised) or debossed (recessed). Look for numbers followed by "PSI," "BAR," or "kPa."
Near the bead area: Some older tires and certain budget models print pressure information close to the rim bead, where the tire is narrower and less visible. If you do not find it mid-sidewall, check closer to the rim.
Why You Sometimes Cannot Find It
Several situations make sidewall markings hard to locate:
Dirt and grime: Road grime, mud, and rubber oxidation can obscure debossed markings entirely. Wipe the sidewall with a damp cloth and look again in good lighting.
Dark tires in low light: Black rubber with debossed black text is nearly invisible in dim conditions. Use a flashlight angled at a low angle to the sidewall surface — the shallow angle creates shadows that make raised or recessed text visible.
Very worn tires: If the sidewall has been abraded or cracked from age, the markings may be partially or fully gone. A tire in this condition should be replaced regardless.
No markings at all: Rare but real. Some no-brand, very cheap, or very old tires carry no pressure marking whatsoever. In this case, use the bike-type-based general ranges covered later in this guide.
The Three Pressure Unit Systems You Will Encounter
Bike tires use three different units of pressure measurement depending on the manufacturer's country of origin and target market. You will often see two or all three on the same tire sidewall.
PSI — Pounds Per Square Inch
The standard unit in the United States and most English-speaking markets. PSI is the number you will see on most pump gauges sold in North America. Higher PSI numbers mean higher pressure.
Conversion: 1 PSI = 0.0689 BAR = 6.895 kPa
Typical bike tire PSI ranges:
- Road bike: 80–130 PSI
- Gravel bike: 25–55 PSI
- Mountain bike: 18–35 PSI
- Hybrid / commuter: 50–80 PSI
- Fat bike: 5–15 PSI
BAR — Metric Pressure Unit
The standard unit in Europe and most metric-system countries. BAR is what you will see on pump gauges sold in continental Europe and on tires from European manufacturers like Continental, Michelin, Schwalbe, and Pirelli. One BAR is approximately equal to atmospheric pressure at sea level.
Conversion: 1 BAR = 14.504 PSI = 100 kPa
Typical bike tire BAR ranges:
- Road bike: 5.5–9.0 BAR
- Gravel bike: 1.7–3.8 BAR
- Mountain bike: 1.2–2.4 BAR
- Hybrid / commuter: 3.5–5.5 BAR
- Fat bike: 0.3–1.0 BAR
kPa — Kilopascal
The SI (International System of Units) scientific standard. Less commonly seen on consumer bike tires but increasingly present on tires from Asian manufacturers and some technical/OEM contexts. Some digital gauges display kPa alongside PSI and BAR.
Conversion: 1 kPa = 0.145 PSI = 0.01 BAR
Quick reference: 100 kPa = 1 BAR = 14.5 PSI. So a tire marked "690 kPa Max" has a maximum of approximately 100 PSI.
Quick Conversion Reference
| PSI | BAR | kPa |
|---|---|---|
| 20 psi | 1.38 bar | 138 kPa |
| 30 psi | 2.07 bar | 207 kPa |
| 40 psi | 2.76 bar | 276 kPa |
| 50 psi | 3.45 bar | 345 kPa |
| 60 psi | 4.14 bar | 414 kPa |
| 80 psi | 5.52 bar | 552 kPa |
| 100 psi | 6.89 bar | 689 kPa |
| 120 psi | 8.27 bar | 827 kPa |
How Pressure Markings Are Formatted: Every Variation
Manufacturers use inconsistent formatting across brands, countries, and tire generations. Here are every common format you will encounter and exactly what each means.
Format 1: "MAX XX PSI" or "MAX X.X BAR"
Example: MAX 120 PSI / MAX 8.3 BAR
This is the most common format on road bike tires. The number shown is the maximum safe inflation pressure — the structural limit of the tire casing and bead. It is a safety ceiling, not a riding recommendation.
Critical point most riders misunderstand: The MAX PSI is not your target pressure. It is the absolute upper limit beyond which the tire risks structural failure — bead blow-off, casing rupture, or explosive decompression. Most riders should inflate to 10–30% below this maximum depending on their weight, terrain, and tube setup.
A 150 lb (68 kg) road cyclist seeing "MAX 120 PSI" should not inflate to 120 PSI. Their actual optimal pressure is likely 85–95 PSI — the MAX marking simply confirms the tire can safely hold up to 120 PSI if needed.
Format 2: "Inflate to XX–XX PSI"
Example: Inflate to 80–110 PSI
This is the most user-friendly format and the most accurately represents what the manufacturer tested. The range given is the recommended operating pressure window, not a safety limit. Both numbers represent tested, safe, and functional pressures for average adult riders.
How to use it: Choose a pressure within this range based on your weight (lighter riders toward the lower end, heavier riders toward the upper end), terrain (rougher terrain toward the lower end), and tube type (tubeless can run toward the lower end, tubed toward the upper end).
Format 3: "MIN XX PSI / MAX XX PSI"
Example: MIN 35 PSI / MAX 65 PSI
Both a floor and a ceiling. The minimum is important — running below MIN PSI risks pinch flats, rim strikes, and tire unseating. The maximum remains the safety ceiling. Your target sits somewhere between these two numbers based on your specific situation.
Format 4: European Dual-Unit Format
Example: 4.5–8.5 BAR / 65–123 PSI
Common on Continental, Schwalbe, Michelin, and other European manufacturers. Shows both BAR and PSI simultaneously. Read whichever unit your pump gauge displays. These ranges represent the full operating window.
Format 5: Single Number (No Range)
Example: 65 PSI or 4.5 BAR
Less common but encountered on some commuter and city tires. A single number without MIN/MAX context typically represents the recommended target pressure for an average adult rider of approximately 150–170 lb (68–77 kg). Adjust up 5–10% for heavier riders, down 5–10% for lighter riders.
Format 6: No Pressure Marking
If there is genuinely no pressure marking on the sidewall, use these safe general ranges as your starting point:
- Road tires: 80–100 PSI
- Hybrid / commuter tires: 55–75 PSI
- Mountain bike tires: 25–35 PSI
- Fat bike tires: 8–12 PSI
Reading the Size Markings Alongside the PSI
Bike tire sidewalls always show size information near the pressure marking. Understanding the size codes helps you confirm you have the correct tire installed and can cross-reference pressure recommendations accurately.
The ETRTO System: The Definitive Size Standard
The ETRTO (European Tyre and Rim Technical Organisation) system is the internationally standardized, unambiguous way to specify tire size. It appears as two numbers separated by a dash:
Format: [width in mm]-[bead seat diameter in mm]
Examples:
25-622= 25mm wide tire, fits a 700c rim (622mm bead seat diameter)40-622= 40mm wide tire, fits a 700c rim57-559= 57mm wide tire, fits a 26" MTB rim (559mm bead seat)50-584= 50mm wide tire, fits a 650b rim (584mm bead seat)54-406= 54mm wide tire, fits a 20" wheel (406mm bead seat)
The ETRTO number is the most reliable size reference because it uses actual measured dimensions rather than nominal marketing names. When in doubt about tire-rim compatibility, the ETRTO bead seat diameter is the number that matters.
The Traditional Inch System
Format: [diameter]" x [width]"
Examples:
26 x 2.1= 26-inch wheel, 2.1-inch wide tire29 x 2.4= 29-inch wheel, 2.4-inch wide tire20 x 1.75= 20-inch wheel, 1.75-inch wide tire
This system is widely used on mountain bike and BMX tires in North American markets. The diameter refers to the approximate outer wheel diameter including tire, not the rim diameter — which is why "26-inch" wheels have a 559mm ETRTO bead diameter, not 660mm (26 inches in mm).
The French/700c System
Format: 700 x [width]c or 650b x [width]
Examples:
700 x 25c= 700c wheel, 25mm wide (same as 25-622 ETRTO)700 x 40c= 700c wheel, 40mm wide (same as 40-622 ETRTO)650b x 47= 650b wheel, 47mm wide (same as 47-584 ETRTO)
The "700" refers to the approximate outer diameter of the inflated tire in millimeters for a narrow tire — a historical measurement that no longer reflects actual dimensions on modern wide tires. The "c" suffix is a legacy category designation with no practical meaning for modern cyclists.
Why the Same Tire Shows Two Different Width Numbers
You will sometimes see a tire labeled 700 x 38c on the sidewall but 40-622 in the ETRTO code. The width discrepancy (38mm vs 40mm) exists because the ETRTO width is measured when the tire is mounted on a specified wide reference rim, while the traditional width reflects a narrower measuring standard. The actual inflated width on your specific rim will vary by 1–5mm from either stated number depending on your rim's internal width.
What the MAX PSI Actually Tells You (And What It Does Not)
This is the most misunderstood aspect of tire sidewall markings, and it is worth spending time on because the consequences of misreading it affect both performance and safety.
The MAX PSI Is a Structural Safety Limit
The maximum pressure rating is determined by the tire manufacturer through burst testing and structural analysis of the tire casing, bead wire, and compound. It represents the pressure at which the tire structure begins to risk failure under ideal conditions — a brand new tire, properly seated bead, no damage, at room temperature.
It tells you nothing about:
- Your optimal riding pressure for performance
- The pressure that gives the best rolling resistance for your weight
- The pressure that provides the best puncture protection
- The pressure that feels most comfortable on your specific terrain
Why Riding at MAX PSI Is Almost Always Wrong
Running at or near maximum PSI produces a tire that:
- Bounces over surface irregularities instead of conforming to them — increasing rolling resistance on anything except perfectly smooth tarmac
- Transmits every road vibration directly into the rim, handlebars, and your body — increasing fatigue and reducing control
- Has a dramatically reduced contact patch — decreasing grip, especially in corners and wet conditions
- Risks rim damage on impacts that a properly inflated tire would absorb
For most riders, the optimal pressure sits 15–35% below the stated maximum. A tire marked MAX 120 PSI optimally serves an average rider at 80–100 PSI. A tire marked MAX 65 PSI optimally serves that same rider at 45–55 PSI.
The Exception: Very Light Riders on Very Wide Tires
The one scenario where riders sometimes approach the maximum marking legitimately is very light riders (under 100 lb / 45 kg) on very narrow tires (23–25mm road tires). In this case, the weight-based optimal pressure may land close to the tire's maximum — but this is rare, and even then, most modern pressure calculators recommend staying 5–10 PSI below the stated maximum as a safety margin.
Decoding a Real Tire Sidewall: A Complete Example
To make this practical, here is how to read an actual tire sidewall marking in full:
Example sidewall text:
700 x 38C | 40-622 | 35-65 PSI / 2.4-4.5 BAR | TPI 60 | Tubeless Ready
Reading each element:
700 x 38C— Traditional French sizing: fits a 700c rim, nominally 38mm wide40-622— ETRTO sizing: 40mm wide (on reference rim), 622mm bead seat diameter (confirms 700c compatibility)35-65 PSI— Recommended operating pressure range in PSI. Your target sits within this window based on your weight and terrain2.4-4.5 BAR— Same pressure range expressed in BAR for European gauge users. 2.4 BAR = 35 PSI, 4.5 BAR = 65 PSI — confirms both units are showing the same operating windowTPI 60— Threads per inch of the tire casing. 60 TPI is a mid-range casing — reasonably supple but not ultra-high-performance. Higher TPI casings (120+) are more flexible and can be run at the lower end of the pressure range; lower TPI casings (30–40) are stiffer and benefit from slightly higher pressureTubeless Ready— The tire is designed to seal against a tubeless-compatible rim without a tube. Running this tire tubeless allows you to operate at the lower end of the 35–65 PSI range (or even 2–4 psi below 35 PSI) without pinch flat risk. Running it with a butyl inner tube requires staying closer to the middle-to-upper end of the range
What pressure should this rider use? A 160 lb (73 kg) rider on mixed terrain would target approximately 42–46 PSI rear and 38–42 PSI front — well within the 35–65 PSI window, toward the lower half because this is a relatively wide 40mm tire where compliance and grip matter more than outright rolling speed.
When the Sidewall PSI Range Does Not Match Your Riding Needs
There are specific situations where the sidewall marking alone is insufficient guidance and you need to apply additional reasoning.
You Are Significantly Outside the Average Weight Range
Tire sidewall pressure ranges are typically optimized for riders in the 130–185 lb (59–84 kg) range — the statistical average adult. If you weigh under 110 lb (50 kg) or over 220 lb (100 kg), you may need to go below the stated minimum or toward the stated maximum respectively. This is not dangerous as long as you stay within the structural bounds of the tire.
For very light riders: going 3–5 PSI below the stated minimum on a tubeless setup is generally safe if you are not riding rocky terrain with aggressive cornering forces.
For heavier riders: the upper end of the stated range is your realistic starting point, not a ceiling to avoid.
Your Rim Internal Width Does Not Match the Tire's Reference Width
As covered earlier, the ETRTO width on the sidewall is measured on a specific reference rim width. If your rim's internal width is significantly narrower or wider than that reference, your tire's actual inflated width — and therefore its optimal pressure — will differ from what the marking implies. Wider internal rims produce a rounder, higher-volume tire profile that can run lower pressure; narrower internal rims produce a taller, lower-volume profile that needs slightly more pressure.
You Are Bikepacking or Carrying Load
Sidewall pressure ranges assume an unloaded rider. If you are carrying panniers, bikepacking bags, or any significant cargo weight, add pressure accordingly — approximately 1 PSI per 2–3 kg of added load — while staying within the stated maximum.
The Tire Is Old or Shows Sidewall Cracking
A tire showing sidewall cracking, UV deterioration, or visible casing damage should not be trusted to hold its rated maximum pressure safely. If the tire is showing age-related degradation, replace it — do not inflate to the maximum to test its limits.
Pressure Markings by Bike Type: What to Expect on Your Sidewall
Different bike categories use completely different pressure ranges, and seeing an unfamiliar number on a new tire can be alarming if you do not know the context.
Road Bike Tires (23–32mm)
Typical sidewall marking: MAX 116 PSI / MAX 8.0 BAR or Inflate to 80–116 PSI
Road bike tires run the highest pressures of any bike category. A MAX 116 PSI marking on a 25mm road tire is completely normal. Most average-weight road riders will target 80–100 PSI in this tire. The high maximum exists because narrow, high-pressure tires need a large structural safety margin above the operating range.
Gravel Bike Tires (32–50mm)
Typical sidewall marking: 35–65 PSI / 2.4–4.5 BAR or MIN 30 PSI / MAX 72 PSI
Gravel tires show wide operating windows because they serve such varied terrain. The 72 PSI maximum on some gravel tires also reflects the hookless rim compatibility ceiling — tires rated for hookless rims are specifically tested to the 72.5 PSI / 5.0 BAR ETRTO hookless standard.
Mountain Bike Tires (2.0–2.6")
Typical sidewall marking: Inflate to 22–55 PSI or MIN 20 / MAX 55 PSI
MTB tires have wide ranges because the difference between XC hardpack riding (35 PSI) and enduro loose terrain riding (20 PSI) is enormous. The lower end of the marked range is actively useful and intended — not a warning zone to avoid.
Fat Bike Tires (3.8–5.0")
Typical sidewall marking: MAX 30 PSI or Inflate to 5–30 PSI
Fat bike tires have the lowest maximums of any bike category. A MAX 30 PSI marking is correct and intentional — these tires operate at 5–15 PSI in normal use. Seeing a 30 PSI maximum on a fat bike tire is not an error or a cheap tire — it reflects the enormous air volume these tires contain.
Kids' Bike Tires (12"–24" wheels)
Typical sidewall marking: MAX 40 PSI or Inflate to 20–40 PSI
Children's bike tires run moderate pressures appropriate for their small wheel diameter, lower rider weight, and emphasis on stability over speed. A 20–40 PSI range is entirely normal.
The One Number You Should Always Write Down
After reading your tire's sidewall markings, write down or photograph two things:
- The ETRTO size code (e.g.,
40-622) — so you can order the correct replacement tire or tube without bringing the wheel to a shop - The pressure range (e.g.,
35–65 PSI) — so you have a permanent reference for inflation without needing to re-read the sidewall each time
Many riders store this in a notes app on their phone alongside their bike's specifics. This takes 30 seconds once and saves significant confusion on every future service interval, tire purchase, and pressure check.
Bike Tire Sidewall Markings & Pressure Quick-Reference Chart
Use this table to instantly cross-reference the pressure marking on your tire sidewall with the correct interpretation and your actual target riding pressure.
| Bike Type | Tire Width | Typical Sidewall Marking | What It Means | Actual Target PSI (Average Rider 150–175 lb) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Road | 23–25mm | MAX 116–130 PSI / 8.0–9.0 BAR | Safety ceiling only | 80–100 psi |
| Road | 28–32mm | MAX 100–116 PSI / 6.9–8.0 BAR | Safety ceiling only | 70–90 psi |
| Road (tubeless) | 28–32mm | MIN 58 / MAX 102 PSI | Operating range | 58–78 psi |
| Gravel | 32–38mm | 35–65 PSI / 2.4–4.5 BAR | Operating range | 36–48 psi |
| Gravel | 40–45mm | MIN 30 / MAX 65 PSI | Operating range | 28–40 psi |
| Gravel (tubeless) | 40–50mm | 25–60 PSI / 1.7–4.1 BAR | Operating range | 24–38 psi |
| Mountain Bike | 2.1–2.35" | Inflate to 22–55 PSI | Operating range | 25–35 psi |
| Mountain Bike | 2.4–2.6" | MIN 20 / MAX 50 PSI | Operating range | 20–30 psi |
| MTB (tubeless) | 2.3–2.5" | 15–50 PSI / 1.0–3.5 BAR | Operating range | 18–28 psi |
| Hybrid / Commuter | 35–45mm | 50–85 PSI / 3.5–5.9 BAR | Operating range | 55–75 psi |
| E-Bike | 40–55mm | MAX 65 PSI / MAX 4.5 BAR | Safety ceiling only | 40–55 psi |
| Fat Bike | 3.8–5.0" | MAX 30 PSI / MAX 2.1 BAR | Safety ceiling only | 5–15 psi |
| Kids' Bike | 12"–20" | MAX 40 PSI / MAX 2.8 BAR | Safety ceiling only | 20–35 psi |
| BMX | 20" x 1.75–2.4" | MAX 110 PSI / MAX 7.6 BAR | Safety ceiling only | 55–110 psi |
Key rule: When the sidewall shows a single "MAX" number only, your optimal riding pressure is typically 15–30% below that figure for an average adult rider. When it shows a full range (MIN–MAX or "Inflate to XX–XX"), your target lives within that window based on your weight, terrain, and tube setup.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the MAX PSI on a bike tire the pressure I should inflate to?
No — and this is the most common misunderstanding about tire sidewall markings. The MAX PSI is a structural safety ceiling, not a riding recommendation. It represents the highest pressure the tire casing can safely hold before risking failure. For most average-weight riders, the optimal riding pressure sits 15–30% below the stated maximum. A road tire marked MAX 120 PSI is best ridden at 80–100 PSI for a 150–175 lb rider. A mountain bike tire marked MAX 55 PSI is optimally ridden at 25–35 PSI for the same rider on trail terrain.
What does the ETRTO number on a bike tire mean?
The ETRTO number is the internationally standardized tire size code, always formatted as two numbers separated by a dash — for example, 40-622. The first number is the tire's width in millimeters when mounted on a standard reference rim. The second number is the bead seat diameter in millimeters — the internal diameter where the tire bead seats on the rim. A 622mm bead seat diameter means the tire fits a 700c wheel. A 559mm bead seat fits a 26-inch MTB wheel. A 584mm bead seat fits a 650b wheel. When buying replacement tires or tubes, the ETRTO bead seat diameter is the number that determines compatibility.
What is the difference between PSI, BAR, and kPa on a bike tire?
All three measure the same thing — air pressure — in different unit scales. PSI (pounds per square inch) is the standard in the United States. BAR is the standard in Europe and most metric countries, where 1 BAR equals approximately 14.5 PSI and roughly matches atmospheric pressure at sea level. kPa (kilopascal) is the scientific SI standard, where 100 kPa equals 1 BAR and 14.5 PSI. Many European bike tires show both BAR and PSI simultaneously. Use whichever unit your pump gauge displays — they are simply different scales for the same measurement.
Why does my tire show two different widths — like 700x38c and 40-622?
These are two different sizing systems describing the same tire. The 700x38c is the traditional French sizing where 700 refers to the approximate outer wheel diameter and 38c is the nominal tire width in millimeters under older measurement conventions. The 40-622 is the ETRTO code where 40 is the actual measured width in millimeters on a standard reference rim and 622 is the bead seat diameter. The 2mm width difference exists because the two systems used different reference rim widths historically. Both describe the same physical tire — the ETRTO code is the definitive standard.
What if there is no PSI or BAR marking on my bike tire sidewall?
A small number of tires — particularly older, no-brand, or heavily worn tires — carry no pressure markings. In this case, use these safe general starting ranges based on bike type: road tires 80–100 PSI, hybrid and commuter tires 55–75 PSI, mountain bike tires 25–35 PSI, fat bike tires 8–12 PSI. Adjust toward the lower end of the range if you are a lighter rider or riding rougher terrain, and toward the upper end if you are heavier or riding smooth hard surfaces. If the tire is so worn that markings are gone, it is likely due for replacement regardless.
What does TPI mean on a bike tire sidewall and does it affect pressure?
TPI stands for threads per inch and measures the density of threads in the tire's fabric casing. A higher TPI (60–120+) means a thinner, more supple casing that flexes easily — these tires can be ridden at the lower end of the stated pressure range and still feel supportive. A lower TPI (24–40) means a thicker, stiffer casing that needs slightly more pressure to achieve equivalent ride feel and compliance. If you switch from a 30 TPI budget tire to a 120 TPI premium tire at the same pressure, the new tire will feel noticeably softer — you may need to add 2–3 PSI to compensate, or simply enjoy the improved comfort at the existing pressure.
Does the sidewall pressure marking change for tubeless vs tubed setups?
The physical marking on the tire sidewall stays the same regardless of whether you run it tubeless or with an inner tube. However, your practical target pressure within that range shifts. Tubeless setups can safely run 4–6 PSI lower than tubed setups within the same stated range — because without an inner tube there is no risk of pinch flatting at lower pressures. If the sidewall shows 35–65 PSI and you are running tubeless, your realistic operating zone is 28–55 PSI. Running with a butyl inner tube, your zone is 35–60 PSI. Some tires add a Tubeless Ready marking, confirming the casing and bead design are engineered to seal against a tubeless-compatible rim.
What does Tubeless Ready printed on a bike tire sidewall mean?
Tubeless Ready (often abbreviated TR or TLR) printed on a tire sidewall means the tire is designed and tested to function without an inner tube when mounted on a compatible tubeless rim with sealant. The tire's casing has a tighter weave to reduce air permeation and the bead is shaped to seat and seal firmly against a tubeless rim bead shelf. It does not mean the tire must be run tubeless — you can still use it with a regular inner tube. Only Tubeless Ready tires should be run tubeless however, as non-TR tires risk slow air loss through the casing and unreliable bead sealing.
Related Guides
The Complete Bike Tire Pressure Guide
The master reference covering correct PSI for every bike type — road, MTB, gravel, hybrid, e-bike, fat bike, kids, tubeless, and hookless rims.
How to Check Bike Tire Pressure
Step-by-step guide to using gauges, pump heads, and valve types to verify your PSI.
Complete Bicycle Tire Pressure Guide
Full PSI recommendations by bike type, rider weight, and terrain once you know your tire's range.
Gravel Bike Tire Pressure Guide
How to dial in pressure within your gravel tire's sidewall range for every terrain type.
Mountain Bike Tire Pressure Guide
Weight and terrain-based MTB pressure targets to use within your tire's stated range.
Tubeless MTB Tire Pressure Guide
How Tubeless Ready markings translate to real-world lower pressure advantages on the trail.